Monday, 8 October 2012

Mud, Micro Pigs and the Middle Class

This Saturday, Ardingly showground played host to The South of England Autumn Show and Game fair, and since my lucky auntie managed to snag some free tickets (and imagining ourselves convincing country dwellers) we decided to head down. So we set out into the Saturday morning sunshine, all bright eyed and bushy tailed, in our cut price Wellies and Matalan quilted jackets masquerading as their wealthy slightly-aloof cousins Hunter and Barbour, ready to hit The South of England Autumn show and Game fair.

Sadly I was minus a lovely British Mulberry Bayswater... but we can't have it all!
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As we approached the gate it became clear that we very much out of our depth; gunshots ricocheted around the carpark, as an alarming amount of LandRover Discovery's boxed us in. This was compounded by teaming crowds of Jack Wills clad young farmers and loud groups of tweedy old men comparing alarmingly large dogs. Luckily I had my *cough* fake *cough* Louis Vuitton to hide behind, and our Brighton accent has a decidedly posh twang to it, so we breathed deeply and ventured in:
As expected, there were alot of dogs... and khaki... and quilted jackets... and wellies...
But bizarrely, there was an abundance of Indiana jones style hats; a middle class trend in the making methinks.
Back to the dogs:
#Horse/Dog/Chewbacca
#Lurchers + Greyhounds seemed to be the pooch of choice for the discerning farmer.
I was hoping my mother would buckle under the pressure and sheer quantities of cute dogs present and buy my a teacup pomeranian, but alas, she remained resolute :(
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I really wanted this little fella, he looked so sad in his little cage with his tiny tiny ears. I wanted to reassure him that he was more of a bunny than the bigger rabbits would ever be. The looks I got when I asked a trader whether she sold micro pigs aswell was scathing to say the least.
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The food was a massive high point. Natural locally sourced food really is super yummy, and has the added bonus of being great for you too: its a win win situation.
 
We brought alot of ginger spiced tipple and some fab cherry drink that the man said would be fab with champagne AND vodka. Thats me sorted then.
Whisky and Honey Liquer was another find.
#Salivating
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Vegetables were always going to be a key aspect of a country show. Some of the big vegetables were mildly ridiculous (see vast Leek above)
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Can't beat a good tractor.
 
Country types sure know their vintage automobiles. Lots of wicked old cars to enjoy. This was my favourite:
The interior styling was really nifty and era appropriate. Very cute, very English, very quant: a perfect fit for the South of England show. #Want
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Country style:
Mum was loving the classic jeans with quilted jacket tucked into standard wellies. Khaki green was the colour of choice at the fair.
Likewise, I was also favouring a good old quilted jacket. Prevalant in every good high street store this season, definitely a wardrobe staple for the increasingly chilly weather. Worn with my favourite item of clothing- dark blue skinnies ofcouse, and simple white converse. Add a classic Louis Vuitton speedy and a Vivienne Westwood key necklace and you're ready to go!
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So all farmer-ed out, we schlepped back to the carpark with our gourmet goodies and took off back to our urban habitat. We had a fab day out in the fresh air, pretending to be posh and scoffing free samples. Sadly, I never did get my micro pig...
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Thursday, 4 October 2012

The house of Alexander McQueen, will the bubble ever burst?!

With the announcement this week that Alexander McQueen's annual sales rose an impressive 27 % in 2011, it seems that this British company will continue to go from strength to strength. This official validation of the brand's increasing popularity will not come as a surprise to anyone with even the slightest inclination for fashion. Recent years have seen the company go through turmoil, yet still remains at the pinnacle of pioneering eclectic British style. What is the secret of this brands runaway success in the face of such insurmountable odds?

 (Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/ Summer 2013 - Backstage Image)

With the sad passing of Lee Mcqueen in February 2010 (has it seriously been a year a half!?) many believed that this single catastrophic event would mean the certain demise of the company that shares his namesake. His final unfinished collection of fall 2010 remains an iconic swansong that symbolizes the designer's raw talent and truly pioneering spirit. The collection comprised of the 16 outfits which he had been crafting at the time of his death. Whilst the collection showcased Lee's iconic showmanship, the sheer level of skill and craftsmanship has never been more apparent.

(Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2010)
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Sarah Burton's first full collection as the houses creative director was arguably the most anticipated of all time. Taking the reins from London's prodigal child was no easy task, and with the eyes of the fashion world affixed firmly upon her, Burton must surely have felt the pressure. The world waited with baited breathe, would Sarah try and emphasize Lee's style to attempt to continue with the brands aesthetic, or would the tactic be to stamp her own style onto the clothing?

 (Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/ Summer 2011)

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/ Summer 2011)
 
(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/ Summer 2011)

Burton's Alexander Mcqueen Spring/Summer 2011 contained the crucial components that gave the brand its iconic and unique look. Pieces were highly structured, with jutting hips and flowing skirts with sharp tailoring. Opulence was the watchword here- this was emphasized by signature Mcqueen heavy embellishment and unusual detailing. With any other designer's name stamped on the collection, it would have been 'too much', but with Sarah's careful eye and stickler for detail, it remains fashion and not costume. The collection was very much McQueen (the fashion industry finally breathed a sigh of relief) yet with an overarching feel of femininity and focus on the clothing, rather than the overall spectacle. October the 5th heralded a new era for the company and Lee McQueen's legacy.
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The start of this entirely different chapter in the powerhouse that is Alexander Mcqueen was cemented by the Royal Wedding. Arguably the biggest event in the 2011 British Calendar; the world watched as Kate Middleton wed Prince William and became the Duchess of Cambridge. In a single moment Kate's life changed, and so did the fortunes of the McQueen brand. With the audience's first fleeting look of duchesse satin and french Chantilly lace, the intense speculation over the dresses designer was over and Burton was propelled into the designer A-list. People who previously knew Burton solely as 'the person that took over from Lee', suddenly recognised her as a designer in her own right. This differentiation is key to the current success of the brand, whilst Lee's iconic look is retained, Burton established herself as a rightful heir to his legacy. 

Cue gratuitous photos of THAT dress...

(Love this picture: take note of Pippa's notorious figure in that McQueen bridesmaids dress)




The 'Kate Effect' is very much key to the brands continued success; everything she wears, from Zara tulip dresses to THOSE L K Bennett nude pumps, is an instant sell out success, her wedding dress was no exception.
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But without Burton's talent and vision, even the midas touch of Kate Middleton could not explain a rise in profits this steep. The garments themselves are the key to a brands continuing success and prestige as a luxury brand. Burton's designs truly speak for themselves, with each collection gaining momentum and showcasing her impeccable skills.

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2011)
 
(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2011)
 
(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2011)
 
(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2011)
Burton's manipulation of fabric is masterful, I might have to just get married in the future simply to wear this dress in my lifetime. 

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012)
 
(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012)

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012)

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012)
This collection is far edgier- applique become S+M, with lace up shoes and sheer underlays. 

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2012) 

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2012)
 
(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2012)
#TEXTURE TEXTURE TEXTURE
#VOLUME VOLUME VOLUME

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2013)
 
(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2013)

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2013)
 
(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2013)
Applique flowers and feminine 1950's esque silhouttes contrast with lattice hardwear and sharp origami pleating to create Burton's slickest collection yet.
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2011 was truly a spectacular year for the brand, made even more impressive when juxtaposed with the catastrophic upheaval of the previous year. The McQueen brand continues to thrive under the tireless captainship of Sarah Burton, helped along by the popularity of Kate Middleton, and cemented by her beautifully spectacular designs that truly honour Lee Mcqueen's memory and legacy. 

(Lee McQueen's final piece in his final collection- Alexander McQueen Autumn/ Winter 2010)
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Links-
#Lee McQueen's last show- http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2012/10/01/duchess-and-royal-wedding-credited-for-alexander-mcqueen-rise-in-annual-sales-profits
# http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2010RTW-AMCQUEEN
#Most recent McQueen show- http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2013RTW-AMCQUEEN
#Royal wedding affects sales- http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2012/10/01/duchess-and-royal-wedding-credited-for-alexander-mcqueen-rise-in-annual-sales-profits



Wednesday, 19 September 2012

Meadham Kirchoff's very Versaille fancy for S/S13

LFW is truly the home of creative and unique style innovation. Yesterday saw such an outing which yet again cements London as the epicentre to which trendsetters flock.
Christened 'A cautionary tale', the Spring/Summer '13 lovechild of Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchoff was a sight to remember, even for a brand so allied with fun and kitsch as this. As always, the Kirchoff show was full of frills, fancy and opulence, this time captured under the guise of french period costume, but above all an inherent sense of playfulness.
                                                                              
The colour palette of this collection is best described as sporadic, but the combination of colours in each look really does work. It is this collection's zany, eclectic feeling that binds it together as a whole, rather than pulls it apart, and really feels under pinned by the brand values. Loving the stark white contrast with the acid yellow tulle and royal blue bows: the sparks of colour really offsets the crisp white structure of the dress coat, putting the tailoring, not the embellishment, in the foreground. 
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Those shoes are to die for- need them in my life. Yet again you can see the designers' aptitude for taking the level of opulent detail to the very edge of embellishment, but through their careful use of colour, keeps it looking 'fashion' not 'carnival'.
#ChandelierShoe
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With this particular look, I love the layering, I'm feeling this is gonna be a key trend following through from winter to next spring. It really makes me want to go through on a blouse with a cute shirt underneath- such an easy look, yet so effective and on trend. The mixture of feminine and masculine reflects the two designer's disciplines, both in menswear and womenswear at Central St Martins. The preppy black gingham print and collar juxtaposed against the floral fabric and opulent accessories creates a style that is entirely kitsch, entirely fun, and entirely Meadham Kirchoff. 
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If I had an acid yellow lace playsuit I would wear it until it fell off me. Feels very 80's Lacroix with hints of Dolce and Gabbana, which is pretty unavoidable when using embellished lace nowadays I guess.
#Gimme
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ZOOOOOM. Here you can really see the high level of quality and craftsmanship that has gone into this piece. The appliqued lace kind of reminds me of tiny starfish, and even though the idea of being covered in tiny yellow sea creatures really creeps me out, I'm just gonna roll with it for the sake of fashion. 
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This look really works on the trends we have A/W 12- with opulence, brocade, lace, bows and my all time favourite thing FEATHERS, still playing a big part come spring 2013. This makes me and my long suffering bank manager mucho happy. 
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The 80s clearly hold some sway over these two designers- really feeling the comeback of power shoulders next season. The somewhat masculine shape is set off by the bows and flowers peeping under the waistline of the jacket. Detail is the watchword of this collection.
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It is through this contrast of extreme, almost costume-like fashions and wearable looks like this, that these two designers' show their talent. This look is wearable but at the same time so now. Also I can't look at this image without being drawn to the trousers- such a perfect look to go into winter, and into spring next year. The cut is impeccable, I really doubt I'll find such a pair on the high street, but a girl can dream. 
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My all time favourite look of this collection, the fab bows, perfect hat, 80's silhouette and power shoulders and killer pins, all of which are bedazzled with the prettiest embellishment Somerset house has been party to this season, really makes this the standout style. A powerful and oh so on trend look which will clearly be at the forefront of the minds of both fashion editors and bloggers alike.
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A little bit of gratuitous zoom action. I love this skirt; the feathers and embellishment really make it snazzy but more importantly for me, wearable on a night out down town.
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I always feel that the collection has been successful if one can come across a look in a magazine and instantly know who its creator is. In that respect, this collection has definitely hit the bulls-eye, but for me, it is clearly a standout season for these two very talented boys. I think Women's Wear Daily's description of the collection as Marie-Antoinette-in-the-Street really sums up this vibrant, eclectic show, and really cements Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchoff as the ones to watch.
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#Brand timeline- http://www.vogue.co.uk/brand/meadham-kirchhoff
#Watch the show- http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/highlights.aspx?seasonid=32&Seasonday=2012-09-18&Day=&videoid=455
#Office webby- http://www.meadhamkirchhoff.com/

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