The BN1: The house of Alexander McQueen, will the bubble ever burst?!

With the announcement this week that Alexander McQueen's annual sales rose an impressive 27 % in 2011, it seems that this British company will continue to go from strength to strength. This official validation of the brand's increasing popularity will not come as a surprise to anyone with even the slightest inclination for fashion. Recent years have seen the company go through turmoil, yet still remains at the pinnacle of pioneering eclectic British style. What is the secret of this brands runaway success in the face of such insurmountable odds?

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/ Summer 2013 - Backstage Image)

With the sad passing of Lee Mcqueen in February 2010 (has it seriously been a year a half!?) many believed that this single catastrophic event would mean the certain demise of the company that shares his namesake. His final unfinished collection of fall 2010 remains an iconic swansong that symbolizes the designer's raw talent and truly pioneering spirit. The collection comprised of the 16 outfits which he had been crafting at the time of his death. Whilst the collection showcased Lee's iconic showmanship, the sheer level of skill and craftsmanship has never been more apparent.

(Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2010)

Sarah Burton's first full collection as the houses creative director was arguably the most anticipated of all time. Taking the reins from London's prodigal child was no easy task, and with the eyes of the fashion world affixed firmly upon her, Burton must surely have felt the pressure. The world waited with baited breathe, would Sarah try and emphasize Lee's style to attempt to continue with the brands aesthetic, or would the tactic be to stamp her own style onto the clothing?

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/ Summer 2011)

Burton's Alexander Mcqueen Spring/Summer 2011 contained the crucial components that gave the brand its iconic and unique look. Pieces were highly structured, with jutting hips and flowing skirts with sharp tailoring. Opulence was the watchword here- this was emphasized by signature Mcqueen heavy embellishment and unusual detailing. With any other designer's name stamped on the collection, it would have been 'too much', but with Sarah's careful eye and stickler for detail, it remains fashion and not costume. The collection was very much McQueen (the fashion industry finally breathed a sigh of relief) yet with an overarching feel of femininity and focus on the clothing, rather than the overall spectacle. October the 5th heralded a new era for the company and Lee McQueen's legacy.

~
The start of this entirely different chapter in the powerhouse that is Alexander Mcqueen was cemented by the Royal Wedding. Arguably the biggest event in the 2011 British Calendar; the world watched as Kate Middleton wed Prince William and became the Duchess of Cambridge. In a single moment Kate's life changed, and so did the fortunes of the McQueen brand. With the audience's first fleeting look of duchesse satin and french Chantilly lace, the intense speculation over the dresses designer was over and Burton was propelled into the designer A-list. People who previously knew Burton solely as 'the person that took over from Lee', suddenly recognised her as a designer in her own right. This differentiation is key to the current success of the brand, whilst Lee's iconic look is retained, Burton established herself as a rightful heir to his legacy.

Cue gratuitous photos of THAT dress...

(Love this picture: take note of Pippa's notorious figure in that McQueen bridesmaids dress)

The 'Kate Effect' is very much key to the brands continued success; everything she wears, from Zara tulip dresses to THOSE L K Bennett nude pumps, is an instant sell out success, her wedding dress was no exception.

But without Burton's talent and vision, even the midas touch of Kate Middleton could not explain a rise in profits this steep. The garments themselves are the key to a brands continuing success and prestige as a luxury brand. Burton's designs truly speak for themselves, with each collection gaining momentum and showcasing her impeccable skills.

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2011)

Burton's manipulation of fabric is masterful, I might have to just get married in the future simply to wear this dress in my lifetime.

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012)

This collection is far edgier- applique become S+M, with lace up shoes and sheer underlays.

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2012)

#TEXTURE TEXTURE TEXTURE

#VOLUME VOLUME VOLUME

(Sarah Burton @ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2013)

Applique flowers and feminine 1950's esque silhouttes contrast with lattice hardwear and sharp origami pleating to create Burton's slickest collection yet.

2011 was truly a spectacular year for the brand, made even more impressive when juxtaposed with the catastrophic upheaval of the previous year. The McQueen brand continues to thrive under the tireless captainship of Sarah Burton, helped along by the popularity of Kate Middleton, and cemented by her beautifully spectacular designs that truly honour Lee Mcqueen's memory and legacy.

(Lee McQueen's final piece in his final collection- Alexander McQueen Autumn/ Winter 2010)

Links-

#Lee McQueen's last show- http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2012/10/01/duchess-and-royal-wedding-credited-for-alexander-mcqueen-rise-in-annual-sales-profits

# http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2010RTW-AMCQUEEN

#Most recent McQueen show- http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2013RTW-AMCQUEEN

#Royal wedding affects sales- http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2012/10/01/duchess-and-royal-wedding-credited-for-alexander-mcqueen-rise-in-annual-sales-profits

Thursday, 4 October 2012

The house of Alexander McQueen, will the bubble ever burst?!

No comments:

Post a Comment